Chasing Waterfalls in the Otways

 
Top Lookout: Triplet Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/16 | 17mm | 1/4 sec

Top Lookout: Triplet Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/16 | 17mm | 1/4 sec

Since the first time I picked up a camera I have wanted to photograph the waterfalls in Victoria's Great Otway National Park. Images of these majestic falls have filled my social media feeds for years and once we started planning this 6 month road trip, I knew that this was a place that I had to add to our itinerary. In this blog I will describe each of the falls and the walks down to them. At the end I have listed some suggested gear and settings for your photographs.

Triplet Falls

The three main waterfalls are located north-east from the Lavers Hill junction on the Great Ocean Road. From the junction along the Colac-Lavers Hill Road, it is only a 15 minute drive to the first of three which is Triplet Falls. The walk into Triplet Falls meanders amongst lush rainforest and features many a tiny subject for macro photographers to focus on. The track is quite an easy grade with steps in a number of locations. There are 3 viewing platforms once you reach the falls. Each will take you a little higher providing different vantage points through the rainforest. When you begin the walk you have the option to go left or right. The path to the right is a more direct route to the falls however my preference was to go left which takes you to the lowest point first and then moves up the falls to the top. In total, it will probably take approximately 35-45 mins return including time at each of the lookout platforms. Unfortunately there is a lot of thick forest between you and the falls, and on some of the platforms it can really obscure your shot. The best view of the falls in my opinion is from the highest platform.

Upstream from Triplet Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/11 | 25mm | 2 sec

Upstream from Triplet Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/11 | 25mm | 2 sec

Hopetoun Falls

The next location is Hopetoun Falls. Hopetoun Falls is definitely my favourite of the three and provides the most variety when it comes to compositions. The falls are located approximately 10 kms further east once you return to the main road from Triplet Falls. In this section the walk is not a long one (10-15mins to the bottom) but there are a significant number of steep steps which can be quite slippery after rain. A moderate level of fitness is required. Once you reach the end of the trail, you will find yourself at a large platform which provides an excellent view of the falls and access to setup for probably one of the more well known compositions. Depending on how agile you are, there is opportunity to climb down to ground level and follow one of the various well trodden tracks to get up closer to the base of the falls. You may even be able to shoot from a rock in the creek if the water level isn't too high. Because of the steps, the return walk may take up to 20-25 mins.

Main Lookout: Hopetoun Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/11 | 16mm | 1/4 sec

Main Lookout: Hopetoun Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/11 | 16mm | 1/4 sec

Beauchamp Falls

I've saved to longest walk til last! Well....it's not all that much further than the others but if your walking back up to the car park in pouring rain like I was...it can feel like an eternity 😀. Beauchamp Falls is relatively close in proximity to Hopetoun and while there aren't as many steps to the bottom, the gradual incline all the way down can be slippery and wearing on your knees if you aren't taking it slow. Once you reach the bottom there is a small number of steps that will lead you up to a platform that overlooks the falls from the side. Your line of sight to the falls is unobstructed and will provide an easy vertical composition. It can be tricky though to setup a tripod on the viewing platform because of the mesh floor. Your tripod legs will most likely fall through the holes so take care when setting up for your shot. The floor can also be quite bouncy so it is also best to try and capture your shot with no one else on the platform. Either that or ask them to stand very still (this can also be an issue on the platform at Hopetoun Falls).

Just off the main track: Beauchamp Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/16 | 16mm | 1/8 sec

Just off the main track: Beauchamp Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/16 | 16mm | 1/8 sec

Back down at the base of the steps there is a precarious track that will take you down to the waters edge. If the water level is low enough you can setup on one of the larger rocks in the water for a front and centre composition. Otherwise you can follow the water downstream for some alternative compositions. Keep in mind though that the further you go, the more obstructed your view of the falls will become. After heavy rain this side track can become quite muddy and slippery and I can attest to this after falling in the creek and almost losing a shoe in the mud myself 😆

Beauchamp Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/8 | 30mm | 1/4 sec

Beauchamp Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/8 | 30mm | 1/4 sec

Now let's talk gear! 

There are a number of photography tools that you can utilise to achieve some great results in these locations, however your primary 'must have' pieces of equipment (aside from your camera) will be a polarising filter and a tripod. The use of a tripod will keep your camera steady and help you to achieve longer exposures and sharper images. A polariser is instrumental in cutting through glare/reflections on water and can significantly increase colour and contrast in your image. Overcast conditions are also ideal for shooting waterfalls as it reduces the dynamic range in the light and makes capturing the scene a whole lot easier. Obviously you can't always rely on having the perfect overcast conditions, so to combat the large dynamic range created on sunny days you will need some additional tools. These can include a neutral density filter (ND filter) to allow for longer exposures to smooth out water in bright light, and a graduated neutral density filter (GND filter) to darken brighter areas at the top of your frame. I use Nisi Filters for the majority of my images. Their V5 filter system has a built in circular polariser and is great value for money compared to other brands. For waterfall images I would suggest using either a 3 stop or 6 stop ND filter depending on the amount of light and how smooth you want the water to be. For additional information on how to utilise a polarising filter or graduated and non graduated neutral density filters, head over to the Digital Photography School blog as they have some great tutorials.

Below Main Lookout: Hopetoun Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/16 | 16mm | 3 sec

Below Main Lookout: Hopetoun Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/16 | 16mm | 3 sec

In the images that I captured of these falls I only used a circular polariser (CPL). The conditions on this day were perfect as it was completely overcast with no additional sunlight. It was also raining which would have made using any kind of larger ND filters an onerous task as I would have been constantly having to clean them. As it was, the spray from the falls and the continual rain required me to wipe my CPL in between shots but the surface area is a lot smaller and easier to keep clean than the larger square filters.

My settings for these images were pretty similar for each shot. I predominantly used ISO 100 to ensure the least amount of noise, and apertures ranging from f/8 to f/16. For any compositions where I used a wide focal length with foreground interest I would use f/16 to keep as much in focus as possible from front to back of the image. Shots where I had zoomed in, I used f/8 or f/11 as longer focal lengths cause compression and layering which bring components in the image closer together, requiring less depth of field. The focal lengths and lens that you choose to use are completely up to you. For this shoot I chose to predominately shoot wide with a 16-35mm lens. My shutter speeds would vary between 1/8th second to 3 seconds depending on how smooth I wanted the water. It was also quite windy on the day so I would sometimes use shorter shutter speeds to limit the amount of blur in the trees as they were moving around quite a lot.

I realise that some of you may have questions in regards to the topics I have covered in this blog post and if you are keen to find out more, I am happy to talk anytime. Feel free to comment below, contact me via email or direct message me via one of my social profiles (Facebook, Instagram etc). 

Thanks for stopping by and I hope some of what I have written here will be useful to you.

View from Main Platform: Beauchamp Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/11 | 25mm | 1/3 sec

View from Main Platform: Beauchamp Falls - Nikon D800 @ ISO 100 | f/11 | 25mm | 1/3 sec

 

How to Photograph Stars

 

While I don’t claim to be an expert in astrophotography, I regularly get asked on social media about my settings and what gear I use to capture my images. I’ve included some information below on the tricks and techniques that I’ve learned through trial and error and other online sources. Hopefully they will be useful to you and other keen photographers out looking to capture the heavens in all their glory.

Nikon D800 @ ISO 3200 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 25 sec

Nikon D800 @ ISO 3200 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 25 sec

What Gear Do You Need? 

  • Sturdy tripod: Carbon Fibre or Aluminium, it doesn't really matter which.  
  • Wide angle lens: The wider, the better.
  • Shutter release cable or remote trigger: You can find heaps of third party brands cheap on Ebay.
  • And of course, your Camera :)

What's in my Bag?

Not that it matters, but I have also included the current gear that I use for astrophotography below:

NIKON D800 @ ISO 1250 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 25 sec

NIKON D800 @ ISO 1250 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 25 sec

Choosing a Location

To begin with you will need to choose a location that has a relatively unobstructed view of the sky. Also make sure that the location you choose is far enough away from city lights that you can clearly see the stars without too much light pollution. If there is too much ambient light around, you will not be able to capture the required detail to make the stars and Milky Way really stand out. The best time to plan to shoot is around a new moon and when the sky is free from clouds.

Useful Apps

There are a number of great smart phone apps available that will be able to help you plan out your shoot. 

The apps that I regularly use are: 

These apps will be able to provide you with a good indication on where constellations will be at any given time, which will help plan out your compositions.

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark 2 @ ISO 2500 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 20 sec

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark 2 @ ISO 2500 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 20 sec

Lets Start Shooting

Now that we have covered the logistics side of things, we can look at what gear we need and how to set about capturing the stars.

As listed above, a tripod is a ‘must have’ piece of equipment for these type of shots. You are going to be shooting at long shutter speeds, so your camera needs to be perfectly still. You don’t require an expensive tripod, just something that is sturdy and can support your camera steadily for long periods.

While you can shoot astrophotography with just about any lens, my glass of choice is always wide and fast. Wide, because it is normally desirable to capture as much of the sky as possible while still leaving room for some foreground interest…and fast, because it helps to have a lens with a fast aperture so that you can draw in as much light as possible. An aperture from f/2.8 to f/4 would be perfect. If you have a variable aperture lens, just set it to as wide open as it will go for that focal length.

NIKON D800 @ ISO 2500 | f/4 | 18mm | 30 sec

NIKON D800 @ ISO 2500 | f/4 | 18mm | 30 sec

Focusing your lens is something that can be tricky because you are essentially in complete darkness and our cameras cannot see in the dark. One trick is to shine a flash light on a reference point halfway into your frame so that you can lock focus. Another alternative is to set your lens to it’s infinity point. For some lenses, this will be marked on the body and it will just require you to switch to manual focus and move focus to that point. If your lens doesn’t have infinity marked out, try manually focussing all the way to the right and then bring it back slightly. This will give you an approximate infinity point and you can fine tune your focus from there after taking a few test shots.

In addition to the above, I always like to utilise a shutter release cable so that I can trigger the shot without having to touch the camera and create unnecessary movement. Remote triggers and shutter release cables are relatively inexpensive and you can always find cheap, third party brands on Ebay for your particular camera. Always make sure that the one you choose is compatible with your camera. If you don’t have a shutter release cable you can utilise your camera’s built in timer delay. This mode provides you with a delay between when you to press the shutter button and when the camera actually takes the shot. Now you have time to press the shutter button and remove your hands from the camera to allow for any vibration to cease before the shot is taken.

NIKON D800 @ ISO 1250 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 20 sec

NIKON D800 @ ISO 1250 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 20 sec

Your camera is the final ingredient in this mix, however as mentioned above, you don’t need the most expensive gear to get a decent capture of the stars. Whether you have a compact ‘point and shoot’, crop sensor DSLR or mirrorless camera…provided you can access the camera’s manual mode, you will be able to see some stars. Yes, the sensor size of your camera will determine how much noise and detail is in your photo but for those of you that are just starting out, what you already have will be fine.

What Settings Do I Use?

As I said before, you will ideally be wanting to shoot at a fast aperture, somewhere between f/2.8 and f/4. Also using a longer shutter speed will allow more time for the ambient light and the light from the stars to fill the camera’s sensor and create an image that isn’t viewable with the naked eye. For my camera, I have found that anything from a 20-30 sec exposure works well however this will also be dependant on your other settings. To ensure that your stars are tack sharp you will need to experiment with your shutter speed to find out what works best. Otherwise if your shutter speed is too long, the stars will start to trail and won’t appear as sharp (unless you are aiming for star trails in which case, the longer the better). The other element to consider is your ISO. Your particular camera will determine how high you can go but I tend to choose anywhere between 1500 to 2500, sometimes going up to 3200.

Olympus OM-D E-M5 MkII @ ISO 2000 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 25 mins

Olympus OM-D E-M5 MkII @ ISO 2000 | f/2.8 | 14mm | 25 mins

Let There Be Light

The final part of creating your image is entirely up to you and will be solely dependant your creativity and the look you are trying to achieve. Foreground interest can be imperative for creating an interesting image, allowing you to include elements that draw the viewers eye into the frame. A darkened foreground with silhouettes can be quite effective. 

The other option is a technique called ‘light painting’. By taking a portable light source like a flash light or even a mobile phone, you can literally use it to paint light over the foreground. As the camera is taking a long exposure to capture all the light from the stars, it is also layering all of the light from the external source into the scene. I normally keep the power on the light source low so as not to over expose the foreground however you will probably find this process to be mainly trial and error to begin with. In some circumstances I have even found that the headlights of passing cars (if you are close to a road) can add some really cool and dramatic effects.

NIKON D800 @ ISO 2500 | f/2.8 | 15mm | 25 sec

NIKON D800 @ ISO 2500 | f/2.8 | 15mm | 25 sec

I hope this overview of astrophotography has been helpful and while I have tried to keep this brief tutorial relatively basic, some of you may still find it a little technical. If you have any questions about what I have included here or anything else related to photographing the night sky, please feel free to comment below, email me directly via my contact form or message me on my Facebook page.

 

5 Tips to Improve Your Photography

 

Lately I have been posting some photography related tips to my Facebook page and I decided that it would be a great subject for my first blog post. This is by no means a comprehensive list, but just a few that I have compiled recently and decided to share. 

Tip #1 - Don't Pack Up Your Gear Too Early

This may seem like a fairly obvious one but I have been guilty of it myself a number of times. Don't pack up your gear too early! So many times I have put my gear away and left after sunset, only to find that there is an encore performance that I'm missing out on. 

It is always good practice to hang around for at least another 30mins after sunset, as you never know when the sky will light up with some last minute pinks and reds. The shot below was taken approx 20mins after the sun had disappeared and the light looked like it had gone.

Tip #2 - What Time Of Day Is The Best For Landscape Photography?

Not all landscape photographs need to be taken during the 'Golden Hour'. While yes, this is the ideal time to capture some beautiful light, and you only have to scroll back through my Facebook timeline to see that it is definitely my preferred time of day. However don't let yourself be restricted to only these times. 

I can think of a number of images that I have captured that haven't been taken during sunrise/sunset and they are among my favourite photographs in my portfolio. Certain scenes and landscapes work very well during the day. 

The image below, I believe is a good example. A tropical island with white sand and crystal clear blue water would also work very well. Don't be afraid to experiment at all times throughout the day.

Tip #3 - Be aware of where you tripod legs are! 

When shooting with a really wide angle lens, it can be easy to forget about what's directly underneath your camera. Because of the extreme field of view with say a 14-24mm or a 8mm fisheye lens, it picks up a lot of foreground. If you're not careful, this can include your feet, or in the case of this photo, a tripod leg. Thank goodness for the magic of Photoshop allowing me to remove it afterwards. Always check your foreground.

Tip #4 - Don't Always Go Wide

Sometimes you will encounter a scene that you are trying to photograph and various elements may be protruding into your frame such as trees, debris etc that aren't moveable. Instead of shooting with a wide lens, try changing to something a little longer and zoom in past the obstructions and distracting elements to capture finer details as opposed to the entire scene.

With this shot below I had lots of overhanging trees at the sides and a few growing up from the bottom. I really wanted to capture the entire waterfall but the extra trees were really distracting. Changing lenses and my composition really helped to remove those unwanted elements.

Tip #5 - You Can Shoot Macro Without A Macro Lens

This is a great one for anyone wanting to try out some basic macro photography. No macro lens?...No worries - While you won't be able to achieve a true 1:1 ratio, try stepping back from your subject and then using a zoom lens to close the gap and bring it in nice and close. If you have a lens that has a relatively close focus distance as well then that will certainly help. This image was shot using the Olympus M.Zuiko 40-150mm f/2.8 lens.